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Picture to left: view from Mt. Jefferson, a short but strenuous hike very close to Bretton Woods. |
The hiking in Bretton Woods is phenomenal. The area is surrounded by the White Mountain National Forest with breathtaking mountain scenery. The trail network is extensive. You will need a good map or guidebook which you can get in any outdoors store. The Hike the Whites web site is a good resource. The Views from the Top web site gives current trail conditions. While in Bretton Woods, visit the AMC Highland Center (4 miles east of Bretton Woods in Crawford Notch) for detailed information and to get maps/guidebooks.
Here are some of our favorite local hikes as well as some general trail advice. For any questions please email Daniel Jacob, chair of the MWP Hiking Club. Also check out Daniel's hiking page!
Easy (less than 3 h round-trip):
- Zealand Falls: A classic. Mostly flat hike with beautiful views, and the AMC Zealand cabin at the end which provides lemonade and information.
- Sugarloaf: The best views for the least effort. Middle Sugarloaf is a large mesa with 360o views. North Sugarloaf has more restricted views but very nice too.
- Mt. Willard: A classic White Mountains hike. Little effort, fantastic view down Crawford Notch.
- Arethusa Falls: A 1-hour hike to a beautiful waterfall.
- Ripley Falls. 20-minute hike, spectacular waterfall.
Moderate (3-5 h round-trip):
- Thoreau Falls: Flat hike in the Zealand Valley with beautiful views and a nice waterfall at the end. Push a little further to get to Shoal Pond. Or go to Ethan Pond and out to Willey House by spotting a car.
- Zeacliff: 1-h climb above Zealand Falls for one of the best views of the Whites.
- Mt. Avalon: Outstanding views of Crawford Notch and the Presidential Range.
- Mt. Hale - Zealand loop: Up Mt. Hale and down through Zealand Falls. A nice loop. Limited views from Mt. Hale.
- Mt. Crawford: Nice trail and nice views from the other side of Crawford Notch.
- Mt. Martha and Owl's Head: Owl's head has nice views from the other side of Cherry Mountain pass. Martha's Mile joining the two peaks goes through beautiful mossy forest.
- Mt. Webster: by Webster Cliff trail: spectacular views down Crawford Notch
Strenuous (5-10 h round-trip):
- Caps Ridge to Mt. Jefferson: Starting at 3009' gets you above treeline fast. A few scrambles. After summiting Jefferson you can hike around the extensive trail network above treeline.
- Edmands trail to Mt. Eisenhower: Eisenhower is a beautiful mountain. 360o and a good venture above tree line.
- Mt. Avalon-Field-Tom loop: A nice loop over three mountains offering different types of views (not above treeline).
- The Twins; North and South Twin - beautiful views. From South Twin you can go down to Galehead Hut and out through the Gale River Trail by spotting a car.
- Mt. Washington: up the Ammonoosuc Ravine trail and down the Jewell. Spectacular views and the peak of it all. Ammonoosuc Ravine is a fabulous trail.
- Mt. Guyot and Mt. Bond: up through Zealand and back. Get an early start on this one. Be ready for visual overload.
Multi-day hikes: these involve staying at AMC huts or bringing your tent.
- Presidential Traverse: The classic hike of the Northeast, above treeline most of the way. Stay at Madison, Lakes of the Clouds, Mitzpah huts, or hop below treeline to pitch your tent at one of the campsites. Some crazies do it in 1 excruciatingly long day but what's the point?
- Bonds Traverse: Up to Galehead hut or Guyot campsite, then the Bond range and Bondcliff. Return by Zealand valley.
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General Trail Advice
- The biggest problem for hikers in the White Mountains is being unprepared for the cold. Even when the valleys bask in warmth, the mountaintops above treeline can be unbelievably cold and windy. Never go above treeline without packing gloves, hat, extra layers, and quick-energy food even if you don't think you'll need them - there's a very good chance that you will.
- Wear waterproof hiking boots - you will be miserable in sneakers. Many trails are steep and rocky and the boots give you better traction and ankle control. Another big reason to wear hiking boots is mud! Even after a dry stretch of weather, expect a lot of wet areas on trails.
- A lot of snow can persist in the woods at high elevation until the end of May, even when the mountains above treeline are bare. The snow is usually well packed and manageable with good hiking boots, but you may want to carry in-sole crampons and hiking poles.
- Bring bug repellent (with DEET) from May to August. The bugs are usually not bad, but if they are the DEET will keep them at bay.
- Bring a quart of water on all but the shortest hikes. The guidebooks tell you not to drink the water of streams, but the water is in fact very clean and there's very little risk in drinking it.
- Getting lost is not much of a risk but you still want to be careful. Most trails are well defined, receive quite a bit of traffic, and give you little option as the woods are thick on both sides. Many trails are not blazed or only sporadically so, but the route is obvious from the trailwork. White Mountain trails do NOT peter out - there's no risk of going a mile on a perfectly good trail only to see it vanish. But keep your senses alert and be on the lookout for any indication that you may have gone off-trail - path becomes unexpectedly rougher or thins out. If this happens retrace your steps. Above treeline there's visual range to help you, except when it's foggy. The trails above treeline are marked by cairns, spaced cloesly enough to allow navigation in fog - make sure you see the next cairn before leaving yours.
- Above treeline is a very dangerous place to be when the weather turns bad. You can get thick fog and blizzard conditions any month of the year. Guidebooks will tell you to go below treeline when the weather goes bad but that's easier said then done - you can't really go below treeline off-trail because the bush (low pine trees, called "krummholz") is so impenetrably thick. It's best to keep your senses alert when you're above treeline - look out on the horizon for any indication of bad weather, and plan accordingly to get below treeline in short order.
- Cell phone service in the mountains is unreliable - bring it with you but dont count on it.
- Always carry a headlamp on big hikes - they're light and cheap and will avoid any panic about getting down before sunset. Light in the woods extends from about 30 min before sunrise to 30 min after sunset. Night hiking by headlamp is generally not difficult, at least below treeline where the trail between the trees is well defined, but take extra care to follow the trail.
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